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Although Cuba has suffered a difficult history and is currently "in a special period", Cuban people remain extremely friendly, proud and curious about foreigners.
They were very generous given their modest belongings, unquestionably honest, hard working, fun loving, passionate and proud even under the most difficult of times. Never once did I feel unsafe or "watched." Strangers, almost without exception, would go out of their way to help. From giving us directions, to getting off their bicycles and helping when our car broke down on a country road. They welcomed us into their homes, invited us to share their tiny rations, offered rooms in their homes for the night.
Renting a car as opposed to being part of an organised trip has its advantages. Being able to offer a lift to ordinary people was a great way to meet and talk with ordinary people (without any fear of being overheard). With local transport stretched to its absolute limits, there are always hundreds of Cubans waiting by the side of the road, often for a bus that never arrives.
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